Kenzo finds its groove in a playful, nostalgic turn at Paris Fashion Week

PARIS (AP) — Kenzo brought an electrifying jolt to Paris Fashion Week with a collection that blended nostalgia, cultural exchange and sharp tailoring under the leadership of Nigo.

With the graffiti artist Futura as a collaborator, the collection offered a fresh take on the brand’s signature aesthetic, fusing archival motifs with urban edge. The creative partnership channeled decades of shared influences, layering Kenzo’s heritage with the raw energy of 1990s street culture.

Bold patterns and thoughtful craftsmanship defined the runway. Futura’s iconic atom logo appeared reimagined with Kenzo’s florals on bombers, wide-leg pants, and tailored jackets.

Accessories, inspired by everyday objects like shopping bags and bouquet wraps, played with Japanese calligraphy and nostalgic cultural tags, adding tactile depth to the collection. These pieces reflected the era of cross-cultural exchange between Tokyo and New York, a key theme throughout the show.

The collection unveiled on Friday also showcased archival references with a contemporary twist. Train motifs, a nod to Kenzo’s late 1990s designs, appeared on suits and outerwear, while refined paisleys were integrated into modern workwear.

Weathered denim and six-button jackets brought a touch of sophistication to the nostalgic energy, blending vintage charm with precise tailoring. The collection’s footwear — chunky loafers and revisited Mary Janes — added playful contrast, grounding the designs in an approachable yet avant-garde aesthetic.

The atmosphere in the venue echoed the creative energy on display, with notable guests from fashion and music worlds contributing to the buzz.

Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press